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Shining gold in clouds of fog: Saint Laurent men's collection spring–summer 2027

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Lightness, transparent hints, archives of Yves Saint Laurent, bourgeoisness and sensuality at the Paris Men's Fashion Week.

Paris (like the whole of Europe) is experiencing one of the hottest weeks in its history &mdash; and designer Anthony Vaccarello decided not to fight the circumstances, but to turn them into a part of the fashion discourse. The Saint Laurent men's collection for the spring&ndash;summer 2027 season was shown in the building of the Paris Stock Exchange &mdash; the Foundation for Contemporary Art of the brand's owner Francois Pinault. Even before the show began, the atmosphere was tense to the limit. Among the guests were Madonna and Charli XCX, who took places at the podium in tight lace dresses in saturated shades from the Saint Laurent women's collection, presented last fall.

Models at the spring-summer 2027 show walked along the catwalk through thick clouds of water vapor &mdash; installations by Japanese artist Fujiko Nakai. The fog filled the entire space, then dispersed, revealing individual details of the images. The spectacular set design was a direct continuation of the idea of the entire collection. The collection is not based on demonstrative male sexuality, but on a much more complex game of half-hints.

Vaccarello formulated the central idea of the collection: "restraint as a form of seduction." This is very consistent with the whole world of fashion, which promotes discipline and a more balanced approach to the wardrobe in every possible way. The creative director of Saint Laurent seemed to focus on qualities. Characteristics and feelings are more important than trends or stylistic findings. The fabrics conveyed lightness, softness, and naturalness. The designer tried to get rid of everything superfluous. For example, jackets have lost their linings, silhouettes have become narrower and more elongated, fabrics have become thinner, more transparent, and more plastic. Many things can be safely put in a suitcase, without worrying about wrinkles and lost shape.

The light shades of beige, sand, and gray-cream, the flowing lines of the trousers, and the relaxed proportions involuntarily recalled the aesthetics of the late Giorgio Armani. However, the resemblance remained only superficial. If you looked closely, it became obvious that Vaccarello was still speaking to the audience in his own language, balancing between classics and provocation.
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Jackets decorated with precious buttons became one of the key elements of the collection. Vaccarello's muse contributed to this discovery. The designer has long admired Tina Chow, a 1980s style icon who turned her own brooches and earrings into tuxedo buttons. Her portrait was among the images on the designer's dashboard backstage at the show.

Things made of flowing satin looked especially expressive. T-shirts, shirts and capes behind the models retained their formal elegance, but became more an attribute of the evening wardrobe.
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Yves Saint Laurent was one of the first to rethink the usual wardrobe items &mdash; an impeccable suit, trench coat or casual clothes &mdash; turning them into objects of desire. Based on this logic, Vaccarello tried to imagine how Saint Laurent would work with sportswear today. The result was nylon jackets and anoraks in pastel shades with exaggerated bulky shoulders and intricate draped sleeves. They were paired with extremely high-waisted grey trousers inspired by photographs of former French President Jacques Chirac in the 1970s and 1980s. The designer himself smilingly called this image "a little daddy."

Another fashion sentimental moment is that the fabric for one of the golden trench coats was reproduced using the material that Albert Elbaz once used during his work at Saint Laurent.
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The nature of the collection was also determined by the details. Silk handkerchiefs resembling bandanas were tied around the neck almost like chokers. Some were worn over their naked bodies under vests and jackets, others peeked out of trench coat collars. Completely transparent derbies appeared on the legs of the models. Several images were built around knitted or leather underpants that replaced trousers. Bourgeois French elegance entered into a fashionable alliance with eroticism, which has remained a part of Saint Laurent's aesthetic for decades.

At the end of the show, lam&eacute; images appeared as if covered in molten gold: trench coats, suits, and tight-fitting knitted sweaters shone royally with every movement.

Shining gold in clouds of fog: Saint Laurent mens collection spring–summer 2027

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