Leo Dell’Orco Balances 40 Years of History with a Fresh Perspective at Giorgio Armani
After four decades in the background, Leo Dell’Orco takes the reins to present a collection defined by shifting light and liquid silhouettes.
Summary
- The Shift: Leo Dell’Orco steps into the lead role after 40 years, marking his debut with a collection focused on shifting perspectives rather than rewriting history.
- The Palette: The “Cangiante” concept drives the color story, pushing olive green, amethyst, and lapis blue through a filter of iridescence and matte textures.
Leo Dell’Orco, after four decades working in the engine room alongside Giorgio Armani, the designer is stepping forward to leave a personal mark on the house with his debut Fall-Winter 2026 collection. He isn’t trying to torch the archives. Instead, he maintains the creative coherence that defines the label while introducing a refreshing effortlessness that feels distinctly his own.
This fresh viewpoint manifests physically as “cangiante,” an Italian concept of iridescence where an object remains true to itself while changing based on the angle. The metaphor hits hard on the runway, where the clothes seem to morph in constant transformation. It allows the eye to catch different facets of the same look, preserving the brand’s hallmark subtlety while letting the light hit a little differently this season.
That light picks up a color palette that refuses to stay in the background. Dell’Orco moves beyond the safety of greys and beiges, punching through the neutrals with notes of olive green, amethyst purple, and lapis blue. These aren’t loud, screaming hues. They are discreet yet decisive, acting as accents that define the look without drowning out the wearer.
Those specific tones gain their power from a mix of materials that play with surface tension. Silky, iridescent velvets and crêpes sit right next to matte, brushed cashmeres and felted wools. It creates a tactile clash between the shiny and the flat. Even the leathers bring a rich, unpolished hand to the mix, grounding the more ethereal fabrics.
Texture plays a central role in the knitwear, which offers the collection’s strongest graphic interruption. Dell’Orco tapped Alanui to co-create a geometric jacquard cardigan, a piece interpreted for both men and women that adds a pattern-heavy counterpoint to the solids. It serves as a soft, woven anchor in a lineup that prioritizes movement.
The rest of the silhouettes flow with a relaxed, liquid energy that never constricts the body. Blousons and low-buttoned jackets hang loose, while wide trousers pool over suede shoes and boots. It is winter wear stripped of rigidity. Coats envelop the frame rather than armor it, and shirts come collarless, reinforcing the idea of easy elegance.
This ease carries through to the optical illusions hidden in the fabric construction. Dell’Orco presents shearling that feels like velvet and silk treated to mimic the grain of denim. The visual trickery extends to the accessories, where graphic belts and wide-brimmed hats finish the ensembles, proving that even after 40 years, the house still has a few surprises left in the tank.
