Matthieu Blazy creates a dreamscape where models morph into birds.
- The Couture Debut: Matthieu Blazy presents his first-ever Haute Couture collection for the house, focusing on stripping the codes back to their essential dimensions.
- The Illusion: The design team collaborated with le19M to create the texture of feathers through pleating and embroidery, avoiding actual plumage entirely.
- The Environment: The runway featured a dreamscape of towering mushrooms and willow trees, hosting a flock that ranged from grey pigeons to pink spoonbills.
Matthieu Blazy marked his Chanel Couture debut by hunting for the brand’s soul. He opened the show by deconstructing the famous suit, rendering the heavy tweed as a ghost of itself in layers of silk mousseline.
It all started with the suit, reconstructed here in ghostly layers of silk mousseline. The fabric does not hide the body but rather skims it in tender, translucent shades that suggest a memory of the house’s history rather than the heavy textile itself.
Tangible artifacts anchored these ethereal layers, with everyday totems like a bottle of N°5 or a tube of red lipstick appearing as jewelry or embroidery. Blazy tucked love letters into pockets and stitched them into linings, turning the garment into a literal vessel for private sentiment.
Such intimate storytelling soon gave way to a broader, wilder metamorphosis as the models on the runway slowly morphed into birds. Dark, raven-black tailoring highlighted the razor-sharp skills of the tailleur atelier before exploding into the chaotic color of an aviary.
This flock included everything from the common grey pigeon to the flamboyant pink spoonbill, though the textures relied on trompe-l’œil rather than taxidermy. Artisans at le19M mimicked plumage through obsessive pleating and embroidery, creating the illusion of flight while hardly using a single real feather.
These fabric creatures wandered through a set defined by oversized mushrooms and willow trees, grounding the high-fashion fantasy in a surreal, damp woodland. The collection ultimately feels like a fleeting dream, a momentary escape that lands softly before vanishing into the archives.
