Under-the-radar designer Dario Vitale is tasked with leading Versace into a new era after nearly 50 years of family reign.
At this year’s Venice Film Festival, Julia Roberts stepped out in a custom Versace ensemble that looked nothing like the house’s usual bombast. The sleek blue wool blazer, striped shirt, and jeans she wore felt timeless and pared-back, offering a striking contrast to the brazen prints and bright colors that defined Versace in recent decades. It offered the first glimpse of Dario Vitale’s Versace, the newly appointed creative director who designed Roberts’s look, his first outing for the Italian label since his appointment in March. After 27 years of Donatella Versace at the helm, the 41-year-old Vitale has stepped into fashion’s spotlight with an understated vision of glamour.
From Naples to Milan
Born in 1983 near Naples, Italy, Dario Vitale moved to Milan to study fashion design at the Istituto Marangoni, graduating in 2006. Soon after, he spent a year at Dsquared2 before moving to Bottega Veneta, where he worked under Tomas Maier. Those early experiences gave him a grounding that spanned both playful, Y2K-inflected design and the rigor of Italian luxury.
In July 2010, Vitale joined Miu Miu, Prada’s edgier sister label, as a womenswear designer, beginning what would become a 14-year tenure at the house. He proved himself a versatile talent, contributing behind the scenes while learning under Miuccia Prada and working closely with longtime design director Fabio Zambernardi. These formative years in Milan’s studios shaped his aesthetic sensibility and work ethic, even as his name remained little known outside industry circles.
The Miu Miu Years
Vitale’s work at Miu Miu coincided with a remarkable period of creative and commercial growth for the brand. Rising through the ranks to eventually become Miu Miu’s design director for ready-to-wear and head of brand image, he helped shape the label’s distinctive mix of sophistication and irreverence. During his tenure, Miu Miu produced some of the defining fashion moments of recent years, from the viral micro-miniskirts of spring 2022 to the “no-pants” look that dominated 2023. Vitale played a role in these trends, showing a prescient eye for what resonates with modern audiences.
That influence also showed in the numbers. Miu Miu’s retail sales jumped 58 percent in 2023, then an extraordinary 93 percent in 2024, according to Prada Group reports. The label topped Lyst’s index of hottest fashion brands for most of 2024, becoming a pop-culture phenomenon fueled by It-girl endorsements and viral styling.
Within industry circles, Vitale’s contributions did not go unnoticed. By the time he left Miu Miu in January 2025, insiders were already suggesting him for top jobs at houses like Bottega Veneta or Gucci. He kept his own profile intentionally low, rarely giving interviews and maintaining an Instagram with fewer than 4,000 followers before the Versace announcement. In an age of celebrity designers, Vitale stood apart as a figure who let the work speak louder than the name behind it.
A Historic Transition
In spring 2025, Dario Vitale’s long apprenticeship behind the scenes led to a very public role: chief creative officer of Versace, one of fashion’s most iconic luxury houses. That March, Capri Holdings, then Versace’s parent company, announced that Donatella Versace would step down as creative director and become chief brand ambassador, with Vitale succeeding her as the brand’s creative lead. It was a historic shift; for the first time in almost fifty years, Versace would no longer be designed by a member of the family.
Donatella had helmed Versace since 1997, carrying on her brother Gianni’s flamboyant legacy. By contrast, Vitale arrived as an unfamiliar name to the public, though backed by serious fashion pedigree. “Championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me. I am thrilled that Dario Vitale will be joining us and excited to see Versace through new eyes,” Donatella said in welcoming her successor. For his part, Vitale struck a tone of reverence and humility. “The House of Versace has a unique heritage that has shaped the history of fashion. It is a privilege to contribute to its future growth through my vision, expertise, and dedication,” he said in a statement announcing his appointment.
Versace’s leadership handover was presented as a carefully planned succession, described by Capri CEO John Idol as thoughtful and deliberate. The transition also coincided with major corporate moves. Just weeks after Vitale’s appointment, Capri Holdings agreed to sell Versace to the Prada Group for €1.25 billion. The timing made strategic sense: Prada acquiring Versace and installing a Prada-trained designer at its creative helm underscored the ties between the two Italian fashion powerhouses. Vitale’s years at Prada and Miu Miu gave him a foundation that many believe will be invaluable in shaping Versace’s future.
A New Vision for Versace’s Future
Vitale has stepped into his role at Versace’s Via Gesù offices in Milan, where the task is to bring new life to a house known for its baroque glamour. In recent years, the brand struggled to connect with the pared-back mood of fashion, and losses in 2024 showed how difficult that shift had become. The question is how a designer shaped by Prada will reinterpret a label defined by extravagance.
Early signals of that approach have already surfaced. Rather than leaning on Versace’s signatures of opulent prints and Medusa motifs, his first designs emphasized clean tailoring and understated details. The look Julia Roberts wore at the Venice Film Festival became an emblem of this shift, showing how pared-back glamour could replace theatrical excess without losing impact. The brand itself has described Vitale as someone who respects its essence while introducing his own contemporary vision.
That vision will be revealed later this month in Milan, when Vitale presents his debut collection in an intimate setting on September 26, 2025. The decision to skip a traditional runway show underscores his measured approach. Vitale has called joining Versace “a truly honored” experience, but the greater challenge lies in ensuring the house’s storied glamour connects with a new generation. As he leads Gianni and Donatella’s legacy into its next chapter, the once behind-the-scenes designer is preparing to show the world his version of Versace. The industry is ready to watch what he does next.
