Summary
- For Spring 2026, Proenza Schouler presented a collection by Rachel Scott that signals a new direction, using deconstruction to explore fresh possibilities for the house.
- The collection mixes this “soft undoing” with hints of intimacy, pairing items like organza thigh-high boots and knitted shorts that expose bare skin.
At Proenza Schouler, the new season feels like a line being drawn. The Spring Summer 2026 collection by Rachel Scott acts as a prologue for what’s next, an idea explored by taking things apart. It’s a study in how dismantling something can be its own form of creation, of clearing the way for a new path.
This was most apparent in the tailoring. A grey mélange blazer, for example, appeared as if it had been turned inside out. Its structural elements, like shoulder pads, were on full display, and its seams were left unfinished. Elsewhere, jacquard fabrics were flipped to feature their reverse side, with the tangle of colorful threads usually hidden from view becoming the primary pattern. An archival coated cotton was used not as a canvas for a print, but as a material to be cut into. Lasers carved away sections, creating patterns from negative space.
This sense of delicacy and decay carried over into draped dresses in shades of black and seaglass. Their chrysanthemum floral motifs looked faded and indistinct, like a memory of a pattern rather than the pattern itself. The fabrics were creased and their edges frayed, giving the impression of clothes with a history.
These softer, undone pieces were contrasted with items that felt more direct. A fur sandal, a sheer organza thigh-high boot, or a simple knitted short worn to expose the leg—these elements introduced a grounded sense of intimacy to the collection. It is a wardrobe caught in a moment of transition, looking back at its own history to figure out where it is going.
