Leoni’s second collection for the iconic American house attempts to capture the zeitgeist but ends up referencing everyone but itself.
Summary
- Veronica Leoni’s Spring 2026 collection for Calvin Klein, while demonstrating high-quality craftsmanship, lacked a unified narrative voice.
- The collection felt disjointed as it attempted to merge too many contemporary trends, from minimalism to oversized utilitarianism, resulting in a diluted brand identity that relied heavily on external references.
- While the clothing is wearable and commercially viable, the presentation missed the mark by failing to reinforce the singular, confident point of view that defined Calvin Klein’s legacy.
The anticipation surrounding Veronica Leoni’s tenure at Calvin Klein Collection is immense, and rightfully so. With a pedigree that includes Jil Sander and the Philo-era Céline, Leoni’s appointment promised a return to the rigorous, intellectual minimalism, as stark and uncompromising as a Donald Judd sculpture, that defined the brand’s zenith. Leoni’s debut collection last year was met with a cautious, if mixed, reception. Critics and buyers offered the benefit of the doubt, recognizing the immense pressure of the relaunch and waiting for her vision to fully crystallize.
Her second collection for Calvin Klein, however, presented less of a defining statement. It was a polished, but ultimately fragmented exploration of contemporary style that left one struggling to find the Calvin Klein soul amidst a sea of references.
To be clear, the individual components were often exquisite. The craftsmanship is undeniable. There were flashes of the brand’s DNA: looks that possessed a desirable, architectural quality. These pieces demonstrate that the capability for greatness exists within the atelier.
But a collection is not merely an assemblage of well-made clothes, it is a narrative. And this is where the vision for Spring 2026 falters.
The core issue is a pervasive sense of diffusion. The collection seemed caught between an homage to the elevated, discreet luxury popularized by designers prioritizing minimalism, and a sudden veer toward oversized utilitarianism. This attempt to bridge disparate aesthetics often resulted in overly complicated detailing that felt dissonant with the brand’s core identity.
In an apparent attempt to capture every facet of the current zeitgeist, from quiet luxury to hype-adjacent appeal to elevated basics, the collection ended up speaking in too many voices. A heritage brand making a modern statement must perform a delicate dance, honoring its past while pushing forward. This collection, however, felt untethered from its own roots, opting instead to reference the successful formulas of others.
Calvin Klein defined an era with its provocative simplicity and unwavering point of view. The Spring 2026 collection is certainly wearable and commercially viable, but it lacks the conviction the brand was built upon.
