For the AW26 presentation, Glenn Martens and the design team at MM6 Maison Margiela took over Milano Centrale to stage a literal passing of transient commuters. The makeshift runway mimicked the daily rush of a transit hub. Models walked as exaggerated versions of everyday people. They wore the brand’s signature concealing sunglasses, which now arrive in a bright rainbow of shades.
Those colorful shades hid the eyes of figures dressed in manipulated wardrobe staples. The studio took a knife to the expected shapes of blazers, skirts, and trousers. Shirts, trenchcoats, and jackets featured ribbed jersey back panels designed to shrink the silhouette into a thin vertical line.
A stark vertical line matched the severe styling choices seen across the transit floor. The team paired ski jumpers solely with tight hosiery. Blazers went directly over fitted long-johns. Tracksuit tops and checked shirts sat harshly against voluminous full skirts and wide culottes.
Wide culottes and full skirts left plenty of room to show off the footwear, mainly practical boots and classic pumps. Nostalgic 80s elements and subtle equestrian hardware broke up the standard pieces. The designers incorporated pulled linings that wearers can play with, alongside hems that roll up and lock in place with simple snaps. The studio scissored exposed lining details right into the denim jackets and zip-up fleeces.
Zip-up fleeces and coats require proper luggage for a train journey. Models carried Bauletto bags in multiple sizes to anchor the travel theme. The jewelry carried a similar sense of disrupted reality. Hands sported rings missing their center stones. Ears displayed earrings still fastened firmly to their retail selling kits.
