Peter Copping moves Lanvin forward with Summer 2026, reworking house codes through lightness, craft, and a wider world view.
Summary
- Peter Copping’s second Lanvin collection reinterprets heritage with a fresh perspective.
- Lanvin blue, ribbons, and archival embroideries are reworked into new forms with lightness and ease.
- Accessories return with updates to the Compagnon bag and pointed pumps.
A year into his tenure at Lanvin, Peter Copping is taking the house into wider territory. If his January debut was about grounding himself in Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy, his Summer 2026 collection reflects a step outward, testing how heritage can hold new meaning when seen from another angle.
At the center is Jeanne herself, still the guiding presence. Her eye for detail and obsession with chic remain the throughline, though Copping has softened them with his own sensibility. Cabochons appear beneath layers of chiffon, and archival embroideries are transposed into graphic prints that sketch Lanvin’s past with a freer hand.
Lanvin blue, once treated as a single signature shade, now widens into a spectrum of tones. The shift opens the color’s meaning, allowing it to carry connotations of sincerity, tranquility, and openness. It’s part of a broader expansion that shapes the collection as a whole.
Tailoring loosens its grip on precision, showing seams and linings normally hidden away. Grosgrain ribbons slip free from their functional role and find new uses, fastening coats, suspending evening gowns, or becoming dresses and men’s tops entirely. Fragility and structure are in constant exchange, a nod to Jeanne Lanvin’s fascination with interiors and reversals, but also a reflection of a contemporary appetite for process and craft.
The accessories lineup reinforces the language set on the runway. The Compagnon bag returns in quilted and inlaid leathers, while sharply pointed pumps and mules are accented by ribbon details. Men’s shoes follow the same line of razor precision, carrying the codes across both sides of the collection.
Rather than conclude with a final statement, Copping leaves the season open-ended. Summer 2026 reads less like a definitive answer than a stage in Lanvin’s continuing evolution, suggesting the next chapters will keep pushing outward while staying tethered to the house’s core.
