Summary
- Bell Ross moves beyond its utilitarian pilot watch roots with a $99,000 timepiece influenced by the art of Piet Mondrian and Charlotte Perriand.
- The 9mm-thick case features a flying tourbillon and a skeletonized movement where the mechanics take precedence over telling time.
- Limited to 25 pieces, the release uses a “sandwich” construction of sapphire crystal and steel to create total transparency.
Bell Ross usually operates comfortably within the cockpit, producing instruments known for military-grade legibility and square-jawed utility. Yet with the release of the BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, the brand alters its trajectory toward a different kind of altitude. This isn’t a watch built solely for reading time at a glance; it is an exercise in transparency and structural art that commands a $99,000 price tag.
Limited to a production run of just 25 examples, this model leaves the standard flight path to engage with the principles of modern art. The design references the geometric purity found in the works of Piet Mondrian and Charlotte Perriand. It is less of a tool and more of an objet d’art, trading solid dials for a skeletonized architecture that prioritizes form and negative space.
The construction builds on the structural logic of the 2018 BR-X2. The case and movement are not separate entities here but are integrated into a single, cohesive unit. Measuring 40mm across and a slender 9mm in thickness, the watch is composed of a satin-brushed and polished steel middle case sandwiched between sapphire crystal on the top and bottom. The brand’s four signature screws remain in the corners, anchoring the assembly.
Inside this transparent frame beats the calibre BR-CAL.389. Developed for Bell Ross by Concepto, this proprietary automatic movement is laid out in a grid of vertical and horizontal lines. The arrangement mimics Mondrian’s famous compositions, creating pockets of open space that allow light to pass through the watch. The aesthetic is strictly contemporary, utilizing a palette of steely greys on the brushed bridges and polished bevels. This monochrome industrial look gets broken up only by the 26 pink rubies, which add necessary friction reduction and a sharp visual contrast.
Timekeeping actually takes a secondary role in this layout. The hours and minutes appear on an off-centered, smoky grey sapphire disc positioned at 2 o’clock. The real focus is the mechanics. A one-minute flying tourbillon sits suspended at 5:30. Because it is a “flying” tourbillon, it lacks an upper bridge, offering an unrestricted view of the rotation and the brand’s “&” logo incorporated into the cage.
Balancing the tourbillon is a micro-rotor located at 7:30. This component is key to maintaining the watch’s ultra-thin profile while still capturing enough energy to power the skeletonized barrel at noon. The system ensures the movement keeps running for 58 hours.
To finish the piece, Bell Ross pairs the head with a grey alligator strap and a steel folding buckle. It is a sharp departure from the instrument panel, favoring the gallery wall instead.
