Louis Vuitton revisits its first wristwatch, the 1988 Monterey, now reborn with fine craftsmanship and a modern automatic movement.
Summary
- Louis Vuitton revisits its first wristwatch from 1988 with the new Monterey.
- The new version features a white Grand Feu enamel dial and an in-house automatic movement.
- Limited to 188 pieces, the design honors Gae Aulenti’s original vision.
Nearly four decades after Louis Vuitton first entered watchmaking, the Monterey returns. Originally designed in 1988 by the Italian architect Gae Aulenti, the LV I and LV II models were unlike anything else on the market. Their smooth pebble-shaped cases, crown placed at 12 o’clock, and lug-free design gave them an unmistakable presence. Today, the Monterey name still carries weight among collectors, and its revival feels both timely and true to the Maison’s past.
The new Louis Vuitton Monterey keeps the essence of Aulenti’s design intact but updates every detail. Crafted in yellow gold, the 39mm case holds a brilliant white Grand Feu enamel dial. The twin hour and minute scales, marked with red and blue accents, echo the graphic language of the 1988 original. This time, however, the quartz movement has been replaced with an automatic caliber made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
For Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps, the goal was to honor the original’s spirit without freezing it in time. “We maintain the same graphic codes,” he says, “but strive for a more modern and elevated feel.” That approach is evident in every aspect of the Monterey’s construction, from its enamel dial to its hand-finished case.
Grand Feu enameling is one of the oldest and most demanding watchmaking techniques. Each white dial takes around 20 hours to complete and goes through a series of firings at temperatures nearing 900°C. Achieving a uniform tone in white enamel is particularly challenging. Every layer must be carefully applied and fired to achieve depth, warmth, and the subtle gloss that makes the final result almost luminous. The process leaves no room for shortcuts, and that craftsmanship is part of what gives the Monterey its quiet strength.
The hands follow the same disciplined aesthetic. Red lacquered syringe-style hour and minute hands are paired with a blued steel seconds hand, all set against the enamel’s clean surface. Two signatures, “FAB. EN SUISSE” and “LOUIS VUITTON PARIS,” complete the face in discreet type. The caseback, engraved “1 of 188,” conceals the new LFTMA01.02 automatic movement, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 45-hour power reserve.
The Monterey’s rounded gold case, polished entirely by hand, nods to the brand’s heritage of precision and design. The pocket watch-style crown at 12 o’clock, textured with Clous de Paris detailing, brings a sense of tactility that’s rare in modern watchmaking. Beneath the strap, a hidden quick-release system recalls the original LV I’s innovation.
Louis Vuitton’s decision to revive the Monterey isn’t about nostalgia; it’s about reconnecting with the Maison’s early vision of horology and design. Limited to 188 pieces, the watch captures the balance between heritage and forward movement. For collectors and design enthusiasts alike, it’s a return worth paying attention to.
